In 1994 I had the opportunity to visit each of these towns all within 15 miles from one and another, a total distance of approximately 50 miles. The churches where Bach worked are, in each instance, in the town-center, and are slowly being renovated as are the towns themselves. Ohrdruf, where Bach lived with his brother, and copied music by moonlight, was another matter. Although once apparently a beautiful, and significant little "Dorfchen" (very small village), with a castle (Schloß Ehrenstein), and also a "Gynmasium" (a high school for preparing students for entrance into the university) it was a major garrison for the Russian troops, where they practiced their "war-games." Although the troops were not allowed any significant contact with the natives, the town itself was seriously run-down. Eisenach appears to revere Bach the most, or at least to capitalize on his name, even though it was simply his birthplace.
Turning now to my favorite Bach town, Arnstadt and the home of much of the Bach family. The photos show two views of the market-place, basically unchanged from the late 16th century. Additionally there is a modern sculpture of J.S. Bach, also in the market-place.
Beginning with Viet's son, Caspar Bach, who moved to Arnstadt in 1620 the Bach family as musicians was dominant in Arnstadt, and elsewhere in Thüringen for over 150 years, and most certainly in Arnstadt itself until 1792. To cite only a few of the many Bach's who were employed in Arnstadt, we find Johannes, a musician, Johannes Ambrosius, a town musician, Christoph, a town and court musician, Johann Christoph, another court and town musician, Johann Christoph, an organist, Johann Christoph, another organist, and Johann Christoph, unknown as a musician, not to mention two Heinrichs, one of whose brothers, Christoph, was the father of twins, Johann Christoph and Johann Ambrosius, and hence the grandfather of Johann Sebastian, as weel as a host of other Johanns, such as Johann Matthäus, Johann Michael, Johann Günther, etc. In all during this time span in Arnstadt, seventeen members of the Bach family were born, eight were baptized, and at least 24 were buried. I have made little attempt to offer you any exact time-span for these many Bachs. (A full family-tree is available in a book available in English entitled "Arnstadt and Bach," available by contacting the "Stadtgeschichtsmuseum, Arnstadt, 99310, Germany.)
Caspar Bach, the first of the Bach's in Arnstadt, between 1620 and 1632, was not only a musician, but also the "Türmer und Hausman" (tower watchman and caretaker) at "Neideckturm of Schloss Neideck" (the tower of the castle of Neideck).
Here in the castle gardens we still
can find the remains of the "Stadtmauer" (town walls), and the
moat, both dating from the middle ages. His musical duties, with the help
of his son and his apprentice, was to play in the "Hofkapelle"
(court choir). However, since this tower was the highest point within the
walls of the town, approximately 195 feet, his major job was to oversee
the town and surrounding area in order to forewarn the residents of impending
peril from invaders from outside, or from fire which had broken out in the
town itself. This apparently insignificant job was, in reality, of much
greater importance than one would initially assume. For example, only 40
years earlier, in 1581, the "Burgermeister" (mayor) of Arnstadt
had decided that the roof of his house in the market-place should be weather-proofed
with pitch in order to protect it against the rains of fall and winter.
Unfortunately, a hot pot of pitch fell from the roof and started a horrendous
fire in the market-place in which approximately 400 structures were burned
to the ground, approximately two-thirds of the town, and the Bach church
did not survive this blaze either. The Burgermeister wisely fled town, never
to be seen again.