SALZBURG: PA'S 1997, AND 1998 Updates
In the cold winter of 1997 I visited Salzburg again, not just
on a quality control mission for my Edelweiss, but also to evaluate
the bars and restaurants that I had read about from other web-site
sources. To my delight I can personally affirm that Pattro had
done an excellent job in evaluating the various "Lokals"
in Salzburg (his site referenced below). I now, however, have
the opportunity to update a few of his recommendations, simply
due to changes within the past few years; for example one "Lokal"
burned down and has been totally remodeled, and another has more
of a history than he was able to discover during his sojurn there.
It's just a matter of talking to the proper, OLD Fräulein,
one who has been there for decades and knows more about the place
than the owners.
In the future I will always plan my visit to Salzburg during the
Lenten season, the time referred to as "Starkbier Zeit,"
and that I accomplished in 1998. During this period all the major
breweries in Bavaria, and some in Austria, brew a strong beer,
"flüssiges Brot" (liquid bread) to replace the
lack of meat which is not allowed in the Roman Catholic regions
of the world. Most of these beers have the ending of "...ator,"
such as Animator, Deliktor, Optimator, Triumphator, etc. although
at the Augustiner Brauerei in Salzburg, not to be confused with
the other famous Augustiner Brauerei in Munich, they simply call
it "Fastenbier," and it's only 60 Austrian Schilling,
ca. $5.00.
Augustiner Bräustübl
Just up the hill from "old town" in Salzburg (actually
a suburb named Salzburg-Mülln), possibly 20 minutes by foot,
is the Augustiner brewery, and they brew a fantastic "Starkbier"
('Fastenbier," or strong beer). To my amazement, this beer
is not nearly as strong as the "Starkbier" in Munich,
only 5.2 % alcohol by volume, with a "Stammwürze"of
12.6 degrees, and their normal beer "Märzen Bier"
is only 4.6 %. Their "Fastenbier" is, however, mellow,
with a small, smooth hop flavor. The advantage to this location
is that after a couple of "Maß" (liters of beer),
a "Radi," and a little food, the return home is downhill.
However, if you "measure the street" as they say in
Thüringen, eastern Germany, the distance may be longer than
the uphill trip.
The brewery is truly a brewery within a monastery, one of the
few remaining, - another being the equally famous Kloster Andechs
in Bavaria, and they offer their beer in the traditional, ceramic,
"Mass Krug," (ceramic stein and a full liter), - one
of the very few places where I have found the traditional stein.
According to their brochure their beer is brewed from an old receipe,
passed down from brewer to brewer, and they state that their normal
"Helles," which they also call "Märzenbier"
is lagered for at least nine weeks, - no mention as to how long
their "Fastenbier" is lagered, - obviously at least
as long if not longer. Clearly their beer is not pasterurized
and has no chemical additives, and interestingly they indicate
that it has a shelf life of more than eight weeks. Also you can
purchase beer as "take out," bottles and kegs daily,
although on Saturday, Sunday and holidays only from 2 p.m. til
10 p.m., poor you!
The atmosphere and the clientel are what makes this "Stübl"
par excellence, -- Baroque rooms, the well-worn tables
of varying sizes as well as the alcoves along the side of one
wall, a great variety and, in my estimation, gemütlich.,
what's gemütlich? And the clientel has virtually no
limits or restrictions, - laborers, businessmen, students, young
couples, families, the total gamut of society. There's even at
least one "Stammtisch," possibly for the city officials,
but another one definitely for sports clubs.
The atmosphere, - how do you explain it? I met with the representative
of the new company which was about to organize and tranport my
beer, Edelweiss, and Zipfer to the U.S. Over a beer or two, we
cussed and discussed the details of the venture, what I demanded
and what they would offer. Fortuantely I am accustomed to quality
beer , obviously Augustiner at that moment, and we reached an
amicable solution. However in this midst of this business meeting,
a spirited sports club was celebrating possibly their latest victory
or making plans for the coming year's events, a young couple sat
nearby, possibly consolidating their love and devotion, or simply
having a good time, a large family, again mother, daughters, "Oma"
(grandmother), and kids were most raucous, including finally having
the baby, a few months old, sitting on a beer stein for a photo,
- what irreverence for a great beer! Here we can note another
aspect of such a beer hall. Oma had obviously been to the supermarket.
Their meal consisted of tomatoes, wurst, cheeses, bread, yoguhurt,
etc., clearly not the total fare from the concessions. Bringing
your own food is not only permitted, but also somewhat typical.
Oma and the daughters each drank a "Maß," a full
liter of beer with their meal. Hence, don't leave your kids at
home, let them also enjoy the evening, and they frequently imbibe
with a few small sips of beer while there. Despite the"noise,"
I found this a perfect place for our meeting, pleasant, gemütlich
and inspiring. After my "friend" left, I decided to
remain, not only for another fantastic beer, but rather to also
reflect on what had transpired. During this moment of comtemplation
a large group with a mixture of ethnic roots joined me at the
table, far more than there was room for at such a small table.
I squeezed into the corner of the table, continued my contemplation
and had another "Fastenbier." Eventually "the group"
found a table large enough for them all, thank heavens. I never
did decipher what they were doing, but probably just as well.
However, so is life in the Ausgustiner Bräustübl. And
you are asking, how did my meeting turn out? FANTASTIC! Maybe
there are some things which never should be done totally sober!
Turning now to the "Bräustübl" (the ROOM)
- actually there are at least three large rooms. Depending on
which entrance you find, you may firstly encounter the "Standlgang"
(hallway)
as shown here with the various concessions,
newspaper stand, tobacco stand, newspaper/magazine stand, plus
a cheese, Wurst and other cold meats including the famous Munich,
actually bavarian "Leberkäse," and other sundries
for your munching, such as a "Breze" (very large pretzel),
and a "Salzstangerl" as well as a pizza bar and yet
another with "Brathendl" (roasted chicken). Leave the
food and sundries until later, and venture directly into the main
beer hall, find a table, join some locals if you wish, and settle
in. Now for the beer! OK, out another door, into another hall
with hundreds of the ceramic "Steins," both 1/2 liter
and liter. Select the mugs, rinse them at the "Krüglwaschbrunnen"
(the washinf well for your "Stein"), a practice typical
when you select your own "Stein" even though they have
been previously washed,
pay for your beers and head
to the "Schenke" (where the beer is served). A small
problem, a normal "Helles" or a "Fastenbier?"
Try the pointing system which you have already learned in your
sojurn, cross your fingers, and hope that you get the correct
one. 
On the way back to your table you notice the
"Radistand" - a "Radi?"- a very large, white
radish, almost the size of an elongated turnip, but a must to
complement your beer in such a setting! Back to your table, your
friends are undoubtedly thirsty, possibly even exasperated by
your slowness. Nevertheless plunk the beers, on the table, sit
down, say "Prost," and try your phenominal beer. After
a short time, it's time to tell your friends about "shoes
and ships, and sealing wax,... ," and sauerkraut, and Radi.
Knowledgeable as you now are, go back to the hall and purchase
a Radi or two, but be sure that the Fräulein peppers it well
with salt. A Radi must firstly "weinen" (cry) which
is why it was generously sprinkled with salt at the "Radistand."
You now have to let it "weinen," mellow. Be patient,
you're about to be in heaven, like a "Bayern in Himmel."
One last item of interest. Dogs are allowed not only in beer halls,
but also in "Gasthäuser" (restaurants). Again to
my amazement, there is a sign at the entrance to this "Bräustübl"
that says that dogs are not allowed. Why then did I then see people
with dogs there, small terriers, large German Shepherds, etc.
My American friend suggested that you could always "rent
a dog" so that you would not appear to be tourist that you
are. Hah, a new business, "Jerry's Rent a Dog" service!
Who's Jerry?
If you miss the "Fastenbier" time, and arrive during
a warm spring, summer or fall day, you may enjoy their beer garden.
As you relax under the shade of the traditional chestnut trees
with your "Mass" of beer, and your lunch, forget those
that you left behind. You'll appreciate the joy and popularity
of a beer garden.
Arrive at the Augustiner "Bräustübl" late
afternoon , it opens at 3 p.m. (2.30 on Sundays and holidays)
which gives you time to eat and drink, unrestricted by time. (There's
always time tomorrow for more Amadeus.) It's a fantastic experience,
be it summer or winter, - one that must not be missed, and it
could be the highlight of your European trip, even if you have
to "measure the street" downhill, and back to your room.
I've done it and it's worth it.
Bärenwirt:
Although working in retrospect, I must also mention Bärenwirt.
As you wander up the hill to the Augustiner Brauerei, at the bus
stop you see a small, triangular building on the right hand side,
and that is Bärenwirt. As Pattro mentioned, while waiting
for the Augustiner Bräustüberl to open, a visit to Bärenwirt
is well worth your time. Although it's only a stone's throw from
the Augustiner Brauerei, it is one of the very few authentic,
down-home "Gasthäuser" that I have found in Salzburg,
- nothing fancy, not geared to tourists, simply a locals "Lokal,"
and run by a total family, presumbly father, mother, Oma and Opa,
son, daughter, kids, and relatives. In reality I am saying that
this represents the old, old tradition, a family and a life centered
around their occupation, something that is almost a dying tradition
in Germany and Austria, especially in large towns, and most certainly
here in the U.S. This life-style is such that the owners live
above the "Gasthaus," and hence are constantly available,
actually not necessarily so bad.
On this trip I discovered that Bärenwirt is even more than
I had known. Although the present owners have been there only
a short time, possibly 12 years, the building and a "Gasthaus"
had been there for over 350 years. Furthermore, it is the "Stammlokal"
(local hangout) for a sport club.
Such a "Stammlokal"
is typical throughout Germany and Austria, not only for their
favorite sport, soccer, but for all other forms of sport, and
the people are much more sport orientated than we are. My wife
thought that this group looked like a bunch of old, ex-GIs, but
a glance at the Bärenwirt emblem on their T-shirts proves
that they are authentic, and at home in their "Lokal."
I followed Pattro's suggestion, and had an Augustiner beer there,
and discovered that this is one of the very few "Lokals"
where you can get Augustiner beer outside of the brewery, and
not only in bottles, but also from the keg. But most significantly,
I had a good "chat" with the owner, actually the owner's
son, as he as well as his total family was there, including a
small baby and very young child. The "family" sat at
the "Stammtisch" (family table,which is meant not only
for the family, but also for the regulars), drank, ate, and played
with the children, - a family experience, be it at home, or in
the "Gasthaus," which is, of course, their home. My
main point here is a life-style, one which I feel should at least
be experienced. On my 1998 visit, I spoke both with the wife as
well as with the man, pictured below alongwith their son, and
pet terrier. The creature in the "Wirt's" arm looks
more like a "Wolperdinger" to me, - I bet that you've
never seen a "Wolperdinger" before!
Both
were absolutely delightful and helpful, even before they realized
that I was writing this article. Each day as I arrived, "Der
Wirt" (the husband and owner) was outside, clearly taking
a break, enjoying the fresh air and the sun, and we chatted a
bit, me with my Edelweiss t-shirt, and he with his white cook's
garment, - I wonder if he ever did do the cooking? On my last
visit, he was, as always outside, and to my amazement, he apologized
for not carrying my Edelweiss, but a competitor's Weißbier.
Hell, no apology was needed, but what a nice gesture.
Obviously the food was excellent, traditional, inexpensive, and
with a good variety from cold cuts and sandwiches to a full meal.
Even more interestingly, as can be seen below, the ground floor
room can be readily transformed from a set of tables for the sports
club, or for your quick beer into a more eloquent setting, and
there is also a additional, fancier room upstairs, nicely appointed,
and also available for parties, weddings, - any form of celebration.
It's quite amazing to note what can be missed on an intial, quick
visit to any place, and most certainly Bärenwirt is such
an example.
Pitter Keller (and Bachmans)
I never did find Bachmans, but the Pitter Keller is again there.
It was burned out a few years ago, and now is totally remodeled,
apparently much improved from what Pattro saw. It is right arond
the corner from the Holiday Inn, "Crowne Plaza," a location
where many tourists land. Their beers are all Wieninger (Bavaria,
I believe), and they offer Bräufaß, Pils, Hefeweizen
Hell, Hefeweizen Dunkel, Export Dunkel, Altbayerische Radler Halbe,
and a low calorie beer, Leiches Weißbier from the bottle,
as well a nice, inexpensive lunch menu.
The "Lokal" is now very attractive, a bar, a variety
of sitting areas, including a semi-enclosed, round middle area
for a party of 8 - 10 people, heavy beams, and a small back-room,
much more ordinary, being mainly, I would assume, for drinking
and partying.
Zipfer Bierhaus
I found the Zipfer Bierhaus to be one of the
more confortable places to eat and drink, possibly with the emphasis
on the former. The address is both Sigmund Haffnergasse 12 as
well as Universitätsplatz 1. From the university side you
wend your way through the open-air market, open daily, and enter
through the entrance above which Nannerl Mozart, the sister of
Amadeus, lived from 1801 until her death in 1829. (Amadeus lived
from 1756 - 1791, I knew that you needed this information.) From
this side you pass a well-appointed restaurant on the right, and
then pass a deep well on the left, in existence from the 16th
century. Continue into the front part of the restaurant. There
you'll firstly find a number of tables made from Beer barrels
(see photo) and into the other restaurant. You'll find PA either
at the beer-barrel tables with the blue-collar workers or sitting
at on the pews (tables). When here, Pa will be eating a "Kalter
Schweinebraten garniert mit Kren" (Cold pork, about 15 slices,
and a generous portion of horse-radish on the side), - one of
my favorite cold meals, but the horse-radish, although plentiful,
was not sharp enough for my taste. For such a location, and well-appointed
restaurant, the prices are certainly reasonable.
The clientel and the beer! Somewhat upscale professionals in the
restaurant part, with blue-collar workers at the "Theke"
(the bar). However, here again, there is no basic division between
the restaurant and the "Theke," and while the blue-collar
workers read the local papers and "klaschen" (bitch
and discuss over the events of the day), the professionals sit
at their tables with their own discussions, bitches. Oh yes, the
beers are Zipfer Urtyp, Zipfer Keller Bier and Edelweiss Hefetrüb
on tap with Zipfer Pils, Zipfer Märzen, Kaiser Doppelmalz,
Edelweiss Dunkel, and a "Radler" from the bottle. A
"Radler?" (See "The Radler The Bicyclist)."
Also, a Bockbier from tap is available during Christmas time.
For the moderns reading this page, i.e.: those who "surf
the net," neither the owner here nor those in most of the
other places that I visited were overly interested in the fact
that they were included on a web page. Only the son at Bärenwirt
found this interesting although he did not, at that time, have
access to the web. While I'm always looking for tradition in Germany
and Austria, in this instance I am disappointed that they have
not yet become modern, and joined us on the Web.
Gablerbräu
Only on this location did Pattro "miss the boat."
As mentioned at the top at this diatribe you just have to make
contact with the right person, this time a delightful, OLD Fräulein
who not only knew the present Gablerbräu, but also its history
and significance. Although my notes are inadequate, and I'm not
confident that her stories were totally accurate, I will explain
them here, being aware that next winter I may have a more up-dated
account of Gablerbräu.
Gablerbäu, initially called "Der Brau aus Ostertor"
(The brew on the eastern gate) was founded only a few years later
than Sternbräu, the latter being founded in 1542, and the
former in 1553. Evidence of this history can be seen on the walls,
and on the stainglass windows on the way downstairs to the restrooms.
Apparently Stieglbräu is much later
Gablerbräu is definitely upscale, an Edelweiss costing ATS
43, while other places charge ca. ATS 36. Their beer list has
been expanded, including Kaiser Märzen, Kaiser Doppelmalz,
Edelweiss Kristallklar and Dunkel, Schloßgold alcohol free,
and Kaltenhausen Bernstein. The latter, brewed by Hofbräu
Kaltenhausen is available around Salzburg, and has an alcohol
content of only 4,1 % by volume, much weaker than most of the
beers mentioned above.
From the entrance which Pattro shows, you enter a definitely sterile
bar/restaurant, but on either side are much more classic, and
traditional restaurants. If you are there in summer, you best
bet is to sit outside, at the entrance which Patro shows. Otherwise,
the front room is classic, traditional, with dark wood and great
stained glass windows. The back room, with huge chandliers, horns
and historic figures, large arm-chairs, etc. is dark and cozy,
however, possibly reserved for larger groups. This is a historic
place, the location is excellent although not in the "Altstadt."
Don't look for Pa there although it sure beats the chains, both
Austrian/German and American.
Obstler
At one of the above mentioned places, you must try a "Obstler,"
that's a Bavarian/Austrian schnaps, distilled from apples and
pears, and is a REAL schnaps, not like any schnaps that you've
had in the U.S. In reality it's best after a heavy meal, and helps
in digestion, but you may inadvertently overdo it. That happened
to my wife and I years ago in Passau (also a delightful town with
three rivers meeting, the Danube, the Inn and the Ilz). After
a great meal we offered the waiter, actually a young student from
the university there, an "Obstler" as a polite gesture
and thanks for his great service. Hell, he not only joined us
for that one, but invited us to two more each. Oh for the friendliness
of the Austrians. Once again we "measured the street"
back to our hotel, albeit after another fantastic evening.
Where to stay in Salzburg
We've solved your eating and drinking in Salzburg, but where
are you going to stay? There is much information on the web relating
to hotels, pensions, etc., including prices, throughout Europe.
Also, when arriving in Salzburg, as with most other towns in Germany
and Austria, the Bahnhof (train station) provides a service
to find you accommations, at a minimal charge. I always travel
by train with a Eurail pass, and hence my orientation. Years ago
I stumbled onto a Pension in Altstadt where I now always
stay, Zur Goldenen Ente.
Zur goldenen Ente
What's
so great about this Pension? Possibly nothing more than can be
found in a dozen or more other "Pensionen " (hotels)
in the "Altstadt," except that I know and like this
one. It's clearly a very old building, but has been extensively
modernized, and is in a very narrow "Gasse," (Austrian
for street), barely wide enough for one car, actually taxi as
cars are not allowed there. Furthermore it's within walking distance
of the Zipfer Bierhaus, Sternbräu, Gablerbräu, the Festung,
American Express, and McDonalds - McDonalds (at least they still
offer a great milk shake and also a good beer) as well as all
of the other eating and shopping opportunities of any "Altstadt."
The staircases retain the character of the old-times, not quite
as straight as a modern stairs, but safe, and even a delight to
walk down, even though they do have an elevator to take you to
all of the floors, safely, and efficiently. If only they could
improve their use of the English language on the posted signs.
The bathrooms are most modern, and the fixtures are in various,
gorgeous colors, and at least one has a boudet. One, more traditional
single in the back has a toilet and shower, but is a dark bedroom
with a slopped ceiling, - not overly bequem (confortable),
but liveable, and inexpensive. My favorite room, also a single,
is way upstairs front, - small, but with all of the needed amenities,
including a refrigerator, stocked with all the beer, wine and
schnaps that you may need after a rough day "in town,"
and a fantastic bathtub, - do I love a tub instead of a shower
after a tough day.
The restaurant, which is the breakfast room in the morning is
not only traditional, well appointed, and excellent, but they
have an expanded breakfast offering and excellent service. 
In
the evening they have employed a "chef" who offers a
great variety of food, not only traditional Austrian, but also
more continental. I invariably end up there for a banana split
at the end of the day, and a schnaps, - what a strange conbination!
The owners are fantastic, and most accommodating. Although the
wife is somewhat "prim and proper," the husband is an
absolute delight, with that old alpine, Austrian sense of humor.
He picks on me, but always with a twinkel in his eye. The first
time there, I almost forgot to give them the receipt from the
Bahnhof for which they had credited me with, only a few dollars,
but he threatened to come all the way to California to collect
those few dollars, - clearly with a grim, and that typical "twinkel
in his eye." A few trips later, when talking about Hitler's
V-2 rockets which were built nearby in Zipf, I asked him about
the "Anschluss," the annexation of Austria by the Nazis.
Although time does not permit me to relate the total conversation,
it was most enlightening. Due to the depression, there was severe
unemployment, people were begging for food, hundreds were about
to loose their properties, and any change seemed to offer something
more than what they had; consequently many were not totally opposed
to the "Anschluss," in contrast to the attitudes portrayed
in the Sound Of Music. The writers of the "Sound of Music"
had the advantage of seeing the results in retrospect. A most
interesting, and informative conversation nevertheless, sheding
another light on the "Anschluss! as well as
Well I recommend "Zur goldenen Ente" as a quality Gasthaus
in the center of Salzburg, where the proprieitors will help to
make your sojurn in Salzburg a great experience. Goldgasse
10, A-5020 Salzburg, Austria. Phone: 011 43 622 845622; fax: 011
43 662 8456239.
For more information, click on Your
visit to Salzburg and Edelweiss.as well as Pat
Pa's Home Page
Austrian Beer Articles