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Genoa (Genova) lies on a large bay on the Ligurian Sea which enables it to be Italy’s leading port, comparable only to Marseilles on the Mediterranean. It is also a university town and the see of an archbishop. Its nickname, "La Superba" (proud), comes from the fact that it has more major palaces than any other Italian city! (Unfortunately, most have badly neglected exteriors and present a rather disappointing appearance, although most are now impressive museums.) The metropolitan area extends 22 miles along the coast, essentially dividing the French and Italian Rivieras. Steep hills rise sharply out of the bay (three funiculars in mid-town alone). Weather is typically mild Mediterranean, except when Don and Jerry visit in January—then it’s very cold!

Evidence of settlement goes back to 6C BC. Over the centuries it was a major "city-state" competing chiefly against Pisa and Venice, occupied by French and then Austrians, then a part of the Napoleonic Empire, then a part of the Kingdom of Sardinia, and finally a part of Italy (now capital of Liguria).

The city was built gradually over the centuries. The medieval central area is irregular in pattern and contains some of the narrowest streets (curaggi) in Europe. But there is also a very modern section, with office buildings of the latest order. Naturally, there are many churches, dating from 10C and ranging from small but important San Matteo to the cathedral San Lorenzo. The black-and-white stone patterns are typical.

The Palazzo Real is 17C. We were given an impromptu personal tour in Italian by a congenial visitor/expert. She gave a most impressive tour but refused to have her picture taken. Later, we attended two operas (2 days) at the Opera Carlo Felice, rebuilt after extensive damage in WWII.

Of course, this is the home of Christopher Columbus! His house (shown) is in ruins and not open to visitors. The pillars of its courtyard are shown. Genoa is also the home of freedom fighter Giuseppe Mazzini, national hero Giuseppe Garibaldi, political leader Andrea Doria, and violin virtuoso/composer Niccolo Paganini. This is an impressive city, too often overlooked on the way to Nice or San Remo. That’s too bad—it is not only a vital economic center, but a beautiful and lively city.