Return to San Niccolo photos

Just a few hundred yards east of the Ponte Vecchio lies the neighborhood of San Niccolo (the final o should have an accent left to right), reached from the city by crossing the Ponte Alle Grazie. The neighborhood (approx. 2 blocks by 6 blocks, in American terms) centers on the Church of San Niccolo Oltr'Arno ("across the Arno"), founded 11C and rebuilt 15C. Church bells ring on the hour during the week, and go a bit wild several times on Sunday!

At the east end of Via di San Niccolo is the Porta San Niccolo (1324), an imposing three-story medieval tower which guarded one of the passages through the city wall. Much of the wall still stands in excellent condition, and some is even now being rebuilt. Just around the corner is the relatively modern San Niccolo Gate (see pictures).

Streets are typically narrow and in San Niccolo are also slightly curved (probably an ancient road). The rough stone sidewalks are barely wide enough for one person. Pedestrians must be careful to watch for cars, electric trams, and motorini (mopeds, motorcycles, etc.) which nearly touch them as they pass.

The tiny shops are typical Italian specialty shops: fruit/vegetable market, butcher, stationer, pizza by the slice, hairdresser, shoe repair, newsstand, household goods, etc. The shopkeepers are friendly and helpful-particularly if you try to speak Italian! There is no such thing as a "supermarket" or "department store"; everything is bought one at a time, and comes home in the ubiquitous recyclable plastic bag.

San Niccolo is a special neighborhood-quiet, friendly, and very Italian.