Arnstadt Then and Now
Despite all of this emphasis on church music during Bach's time, and the
ca. 150 years of the Bach family, in reality, the churches today have minimal
significance to the population as a whole. Although the churches are being
renovated, and the music of Bach and others is being revived, the regular
attendance at the churches is represented primarily by the older members
of the community. The generation today, brought up during communism, has
alsolutely no interest in religion, and although we revere the past, the
churches appear to be "passe" in eastern Germany.
Arnstadt, nick-named "Das Tor zum Thüringer Wald" (the gate
to the Thüringen woods), itself is a historic, and delightful, small
town of ca. 30,000 inhabitants. It is the oldest town in Thüringen,
founded in 703 A.D., and designated as a "Stadt" (town) in 1266.
By this time, the high middle ages, the walls and moat of the town had been
built. Initially it was a trading center especially for grains and wood.
By 1388 this town of 3000 inhabitants had a flourishing economy with butchers,
bakers, and candelstick makers (have you heard that before), actually also
shoemakers, and other crafts, and much later, during the 30 years war, (1618
- 1648), the junction between the Sweds in the north and the troops from
the south. As the centuries progressed, more and more was added to the town,
firstly within the town walls, - the charming and uneven cobble-stone streets
dating from the middle-ages and renaissance period are still in tact, although
the "Fachwerk" (buildings with the wooden beams dividing stone
and straw for the walls), cloisters and cathedrals, have undergone considerable
changes. However, history is still evident here. The center of town, the
market- place, is well preserved from the late 16th century, as are some
other parts of the town, although much renovation and reconstruction is
still to be done. Amidst the deterioration of the past six decades, you
will have to follow my advice, and look carefully in order to appreciate
this beauty and history.
Start with the "Alteburg," an old "Festung" (fortress)
with its "Turm" (tower) high over the town,
an "Aussichtspunkt"
(look-out point) in order to gain some perspective of the town itself, the
old walls of the town, the major buildings and cathedrals, etc. Martin Luther
referred to Arnstadt from this view as a "Schüssel gesottener
Krebse garniert mit Petersilie" (a pot of boiling crabs garnished with
parsley). While there enjoying the view of Arnstadt, have a snack, and a
drink, - crabs are not recommended.
(The "Alteburg" is not
too high, or difficult to climb, - I made it on a cold, February night years
ago.) While there you can take a leisurely walk in the vicinity, almost
in the Thüringen woods, and other over-views of the surrounding area.
Although Bach was in Arnstadt only from 1703 until 1707, the Bach family
had a long and influential tradition there. The town square has the a totally
modern, most delightful and individualistic sculpture memorializing Johann
Sebastian, possibly attempting to portray his youth and individuality during
his sojurn in Arnstadt, or possibly showing him in a typical organist's
position, pumping the pedals.


The first photo above shows a modern scuplture of the young Bach in a most
unceremonious position; the second photo shows Bach's statue surrounded
by kids in costume. This was taken during "Fasching" (Carnival
as in Rio), and the total market-place was in a celebrating mode. No one
really cared about Johann Sebastian at that particular moment other than
a perch for the kids to get a better view of the festivities. In a corner
of the market-place is also the "Bachkirche" (in 1333 it was named
the "Bonifatiuskirche"), rebuilt, and renamed the "Neue Kirche"
in 1676, and remained so as Bach found it. However, with the fame that Johann
Sebastian has gained, it was eventually again renamed, that time to the
"Bachkirche."
In 1707, Johann Sebastian himself, however, left for Mühlhausen, since
he was by then totally "out of favor" with the officials of the
town and the members of the church.
What may be one of the more interesting aspects of modern Arnstadt is
their new Music School in a corner of the market-place. Traditiional, classical
music coupled with popular music from jazz to almost whatever you wish is
available in this music school, although I doubt it you will much find "Country
and Western" there. While most of us in the U.S. have lost any reverence
for the traditional western music, here in Arnstadt they have built a totally
new, extremely modern Music School for the community, where anyone, for
a fee can enroll. The school is supported from three sources: 1/3 from the
students,1/3 from the county (in this instance Imkreis), and 1/3 from the
state (Thüringen). Students from age 3 to 69 flood to the school daily
for private lessons in virtually all of the instruments from piano, and
violin to all other instruments including guitar. The school also offers
classes in music theory, music history, dance, as well as the potential
to participate in various ensembles, specifically with an emphasis on the
classics, although they also offer the potential for jazz groups. The particular
emphasis of the music school depends on the individual director, and in
this instance, it is firstly classical music. There are similar schools
in Erfurt and Weimar, but not in any of the other Bach towns where I would
have expected to find them. Even here in Thüringen, such a concept
is a dying tradition. Rather too much emphasis on politics, and economics
than on culture!
Approximately 650 students attend the school once a week, normally for a
40 week-year, and pay DM 740 per year for 40, 3/4 hour lessons, a "tidy"
sum considering the economy of the area. The students also have the opportunity
to attend 1/2 hour lessons for DM 540 per year and partner lessons (2 per
class) for DM 480 per year. Without attempting to equate the varying exchange
rate, these figures must be considered significant when one considers that
the unemployment in Arnstadt and Thüringen is ca. 24 %, and in Germany
in "toto" is ca. 17%. How much do these people value culture!
This is called a "Puppen Museum," or in English a "Doll
Museum." However, this is a total misnomer for this collection. It
is not a collection of puppets as one would find for the amusement of children
as in a "puppet show." You'll never find Barbie and Ken there.
This is a fantastic collection of miniatures portraying much of the culture,
and history of Thüringen, not only the courtly life, but also the life,
trades, and culture of the town. The reproduction on the left shows a"Tischlerei
(carpenter's workshop), and they are working with his tables, chairs, etc.
The other photo shows an "Apotheke" (pharmacy), and the "puppets"
here are also working industrially.

During the time that Johann Sebastian was in Arnstadt, this significant
collection of miniatures was materializing. An imaginative princess, Katherina
von Nassau, who had no children, but money and time decided that she wanted
to reconstruct the life and culture of Thüringen in miniature, portraying
a vivid picture of the age. Between 1697 and 1735 this collection was being
created. Using the skilled craftsmen of the area, she had her collection
created in cloth, wax and wood, a total of 82 "doll-houses," 400
"dolls," 2670 items of everyday life such as chairs, tables, beds,
dishes, utensils, etc., all constructed to scale.